A wave can be both a dream and a nightmare. In January 2019, at Pipeline, on Oahu’s North Shore, 42-year-old surfer Kohl Christensen caught an ideal swell (seen here)—the sort of wave that “sums up why we surf,” as the legendary Kelly Slater later put it.
10 Things Every Surfer Can Learn From Training Like A Big-Wave Surfer
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A surfer can spend years in the water and never get a ride like that, recalls Christensen, who lives down the road from the break. “Then, all of a sudden, it’s almost like the wave comes to you.” The thing is, a wave can turn deadly just as quickly. In December, less than a year after this photo was taken, Christensen was out at Pipeline again. He pulled into a tube but wiped out, flying headfirst into the water and cracking his head on a reef. Lifeguards rushed the unconscious surfer to a hospital, where he underwent brain surgery. He expects to make a full recovery and hasn’t lost the desire to go after monster surf. That said, “Now I feel totally at peace just hanging out with my daughters and watching the waves. I never felt that way before. I never felt that calm.”
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A wave can be both a dream and a nightmare. In January 2019, at Pipeline, on Oahu’s North Shore, 42-year-old surfer Kohl Christensen caught an ideal swell (seen here)—the sort of wave that “sums up why we surf,” as the legendary Kelly Slater later put it.
10 Things Every Surfer Can Learn From Training Like A Big-Wave Surfer
Read article
A surfer can spend years in the water and never get a ride like that, recalls Christensen, who lives down the road from the break. “Then, all of a sudden, it’s almost like the wave comes to you.”
10 Things Every Surfer Can Learn From Training Like A Big-Wave Surfer
Read article
10 Things Every Surfer Can Learn From Training Like A Big-Wave Surfer
The thing is, a wave can turn deadly just as quickly.
In December, less than a year after this photo was taken, Christensen was out at Pipeline again. He pulled into a tube but wiped out, flying headfirst into the water and cracking his head on a reef. Lifeguards rushed the unconscious surfer to a hospital, where he underwent brain surgery. He expects to make a full recovery and hasn’t lost the desire to go after monster surf.
That said, “Now I feel totally at peace just hanging out with my daughters and watching the waves. I never felt that way before. I never felt that calm.”
For access to exclusive gear videos, celebrity interviews, and more, subscribe on YouTube!
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